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Choosing your shirt collar

This guide will help you choose the collar that's just right for you!

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Shirt collars

The italian collar

The Italian collar is a cross between the French collar and the cutaway collar. It is perfect for everyday business wear. It looks good without a tie, but can also be worn with a tie for special occasions.

The french collar

The French collar, also known as the classic collar, has close-set points. Its style is timeless and classic. It elongates round faces. You can wear it with a tie and a suit.

The cutaway collar

The cutaway collar, or open collar, has points that are much wider apart than those of the French collar. Its style is elegant, original, and modern. It balances narrow and elongated faces. It is typically worn without a tie.

The mandarin collar

The mandarin collar is a minimalist collar, with just a collar stand. Its style is casual, although it can also be given a very formal look. It is worn without a tie.

The Long Collar

Specially designed to be worn under a suit jacket with a tie, the long collar is made for men who want to make an impression. Perfect for business settings or ceremonies, this collar will particularly enhance tall men.

The button-down collar

The button-down collar features 2 buttons to secure the points. Its style is casual. It enhances square and round faces. Wear it without a tie.

The round collar

The round collar, or club collar, has rounded tips. Its style is retro chic. It softens angular faces. You can wear it without a tie or with a slim tie.

The wing collar

The wing collar, or formal collar, features folded front points. Its style is formal and is chosen for festive events. Wear it with a bow tie.

 

A collar to suit you and the occasion

The choice of shirt collar is very important, as it will determine your style and modify your silhouette. There are many shirt collars to choose from, depending on your drape, your desires and your body type. Thanks to our customers, we've discovered that certain collars are better suited to certain faces.

A shirt collar to suit your morphology

Whether your face is round, triangular, square or elongated, there's a collar to suit you!

Round face

To slim and elongate your face, we recommend a closed collar with a small opening. A collar with long tabs. Our suggestions: French collar, button-down collar, large closed collar.

Angular face

To soften your features and avoid accentuating the width of your face, opt for a collar with a small opening, long points and ideally with curves. A simple soft button-down collar or Italian collar may work. You can also try a round-neck shirt, which will really soften your face.

Elongated face

To rebalance a face that's too thin or elongated, opt for a collar with a wide opening and/or rather short points. Our suggestions: open cutaway collar, small collar.

 

A shirt collar for every occasion

Business style

For formal wear, opt for a collar with a good drape, allowing you to complement your outfit with a tie if required. Collars: Italian collar, open collar, French collar, large collar.

Casual style

A casual look is worn without a tie, so with a less rigid collar. Collars: button-down collar, Mao collar / shirt collar, small collar.

Casual chic

For a casual chic look, choose a structured collar that drapes well without a tie. The Italian collar is often the best choice. The Italian collar is LE CHEMISEUR®'s standard collar. It's chic, yet works very well open, and its wide points are always well placed. You can also opt for a mao collar shirt.

Ceremonial style

For your ceremonial or festive events, opt for a large, stiff collar that allows you to slip on a tie or bow tie, like the grand col or the French collar. With a bow tie, you can even opt for a wing collar.

AI LE CHEMISEUR® adapts the rigidity of your collar and plays on the triplure according to the collar chosen.

 

Choose your collar

You can customize your shirt with the collar you want, thanks to customization with LE CHEMISEUR®!

Questions about shirt collars

Which shirt collar suits my face

Collar choice depends on facial shape: an Italian collar or button-down elongates a round face, while an open cutaway or small collar balances a long or narrow face. Discover details and examples in our guide: Choosing your shirt collar

How do I choose a shirt collar for my face shape

For round faces, choose a French collar or button-down collar. Square or angular faces suit a round or Italian collar. Elongated faces look great with a cutaway collar or small collar.

Which sweater neckline works best when wearing a shirt

V-necks highlight the shirt collar and are better suited for a professional look, while crew necks give a more casual appearance but can compress the collar. For business wear, a V-neck is generally recommended.

Which shirt collar for a job interview

Go for a crisp Italian collar or French collar, ideal with a tie and suit for a professional look. Shop the business range: Dress shirts

Best collar for a wedding or ceremony

For formal events, choose a long collar, wing collar, or French collar. These allow for a tie or bow tie and can be customized online with LE CHEMISEUR®.

Best collar for business professionals

The Italian collar, cutaway collar, or long collar are perfect under a suit for a bold business look. See professional shirts: Dress shirts

Which collar is versatile for both work and weekends

The Italian collar is your best all-rounder, working well with or without a tie for both professional and casual occasions. Full guide: Choosing your shirt collar

What's the difference between Italian and French collar

The French collar has closer points for a classic style. The Italian collar is wider and more modern, easy to wear even without a tie.

Best collar to wear without a tie

Choose an open Italian collar, Mandarin collar, small collar, or button-down collar—these hold their shape well, with or without a tie.

Collar for a round face

A closed collar with long points, like the French collar or button-down, elongates a round face. More tips here: Choosing your shirt collar

Best collar if I have a belly or larger build

A French or button-down collar with elongated points balances your features and flatters broad shapes. Digital made-to-measure makes it easy to adjust your fit: Custom shirts

Which collar to avoid with a short neck

Opt for closed or structured collars (French, long collar) to visually lengthen the neck. Avoid very wide open collars that could shorten your look.

Could my beard or hairstyle influence collar choice

Yes! Full beards or voluminous hair call for a grand collar (Italian or long collar); small collars may get lost under facial hair.

Collar for wearing a bow tie

The wing collar or French collar are the standard for pairing with a bow tie at formal events.

Best collar for a formal meeting

An Italian collar with a crisp finish, ideal worn with a tie. It’s the LE CHEMISEUR® standard for business.

Is it OK to wear a stand (Mao) collar to the office

The Mandarin collar fits a modern business-casual style, but classic collars are better for formal meetings.

How do I keep my collar from deforming

Look for shirts with removable collar stays and a well-structured shape—they help keep your collar looking sharp throughout the day.

Are removable collar stays a must

Yes, they keep rigid collars in perfect shape and can be removed for washing, preserving quality.

Does the collar affect comfort

A soft collar, well-adapted to your neck, increases comfort, especially when skipping the tie. LE CHEMISEUR® offers easy, AI-powered fit: Your perfect fit with AI

Best collar for wide or skinny ties

Italian or long collars balance a wide tie; for skinny ties, go with a French collar closed to match proportions.

Best collar to go under a suit jacket

A large collar, like the Italian or long collar, fits neatly under jacket lapels if sized correctly.

Best shirts for larger men

LE CHEMISEUR®'s digital made-to-measure lets you tailor your collar and cut for every build: Custom shirts

Best collar for a stocky man

French or button-down collars help elongate the silhouette and flatter stocky figures. Made-to-measure helps find the optimal fit.

Collar style that's smart yet relaxed

The button-down collar or round ‘club’ collar pair easy-going comfort with chic casual style. More advice: FAQ Choosing your shirt

Which collar for a larger body type

A closed French or button-down collar will structure and visually lengthen your face for a balanced look.

Trending shirt collars for 2026

Wider, button-down, club, and Mandarin collars are leading trends for 2026, mixing retro flair with clean minimalism. Discover new arrivals: Dress shirts

Is the French collar dressier than the Italian collar

French collars are timeless and classic; Italian collars bring a more open, sophisticated look. Both are dressy—choose based on your personal style.

Can the Mandarin collar work for business

The Mandarin collar is smart for business casual or summer, but not recommended for formal situations—it can't be worn with a tie.

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