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Oxford, Twill, Poplin shirts: which fabric to choose?

Choosing the perfect dress shirt starts with the fabric. At LE CHEMISEUR® , we want to help you find not only the shirt that fits you perfectly, but also the one that really suits you.

By learning to recognize the different weaves, you take the reins of your style, confidently selecting the fabric that meets your needs and desires. Wondering what the difference is between twill and poplin, or oxford and twill twill? Find the answer to your questions and become an expert in shirt fabrics in just a few minutes!

Weave, warp and weft

In textiles,weave represents the type of weave. It's the way in which warp threads (threads running lengthwise along the fabric) and weft threads (threads running widthwise along the fabric) interweave to create the fabric. It is this structure that gives the fabric its unique properties, texture and appearance.

A woven garment (such as shirt fabric) is made by interweaving warp and weft threads at right angles. A woven fabric has a stable, resistant and often more formal structure, ideal for shirts. A knitted garment (such as a sweater or t-shirt) is made of interwoven loops of yarn. A knitted fabric is softer and more supple, but has much less drape. For shirts, we always use woven fabric. Knit fabrics are more fluid and stick to the skin, which is less flattering for the figure.

Poplin

Poplin is the classic flat, smooth weave for formal shirts. It combines lightness and comfort for elegant business shirts.

History

Poplin weaving originated in Avignon, a former papal city in the 15th century. It was originally made of silk before becoming a common cotton fabric in the 19th century.

Historically used for workwear and military uniforms, as well as by couturiers for elegant creations, poplin is today one of the main fabrics used to make shirts.

Structure

Poplin, woven from a simple plain weave, represents elegance and lightness.

The tight weave of warp and weft gives it a smooth surface, ideal for formal shirts.

It's a rather fine, elegant fabric that can tend to wrinkle. It's best to choose a quality twisted yarn with an Easy-Care finish.

Aspect

Poplin, appreciated for its soft hand and smooth appearance, is ideal for business and formal drapes. Stripes can add character to your poplin shirt.

If you opt for a plain shirt, you can contrast its smooth appearance with a more textured suit, in a slightly Heathered color for example, for a controlled, elegant look.

Poplin shirts

Twill

Twill can be recognized by its subtle diagonal striation. A twill shirt has good drape and is a little thicker, making it ideal for shirts that retain their shape over time and are easy-care to iron. Twill is recommended for business shirts, but also for casual winter shirts, such as flannels.

History

Historically, twill made its mark on the denim industry in the 19th century. Twill is a durable weave, and was used from the very beginning - and still is today - on jeans and most other trousers.
Various denim brands have explored specific types of Twill to distinguish themselves, such as broken twill, left-hand twill or right-hand twill.

Structure

Twill is a fabric weave in which the warp thread passes alternately under and over two weft threads, creating a distinct diagonal pattern.
This structure makes the fabric particularly durable, and gives it a visually appealing appearance thanks to the oblique lines drawn into the weave.

A twill shirt has a good drape and a slight diagonal stripe. On light fabrics, especially white twills, there is a luminous, slightly shiny appearance. Twill is perfect for exceptional business and formal shirts. It can also be found on more casual fabrics, such as flannels.

Oxford and pinpoint

Oxford is a slightly grainy weave. An oxford shirt will be thicker, softer and more breathable than other weaves, ideal for comfortable smart-casual shirts. Pinpoint is a fine, dense, double-twisted yarn version of oxford. Suitable for formal shirts, it can be an alternative to twill. Pinpoint is slightly more breathable and matte than twill.

History

Oxford weave has its origins in 19th-century Scotland, where it was developed to meet a need for strength and durability. Initially used for workwear and uniforms, it quickly established itself thanks to its strength and ease of care. Its name derives from Oxford University, where it was popularized for student shirts, combining discreet elegance with practicality.

Structure

Oxford fabric is characterized by its braided weave, where the warp and weft threads are woven together in pairs, giving it its unique textured appearance and creating a distinctive grain pattern.

There are several variants of this weave: the more casual classic Oxford, the refined Oxford Royal and the finer, lighter-textured pinpoint.

Aspect

Oxford's robustness and strength make it ideal for everyday use. Thicker than poplin, it's perfect for mid-season shirts that require both comfort and style.

Oxford shirts

In our selection of oxford shirts, discover also Pinpoint shirts, much slimmer and more businesslike, and royal oxford, one of our most formal fabrics.

Our favorite: Dobby weave

Dobby is a fabric with a micro pattern created by weaving. A dobby fabric can be used to create a beautiful shirt, faux-uni, easy to combine and a nice change from classic patterns. What's more, dobby fabric is easy-care to iron.

Questions on the weaves

What's the difference between poplin twill and oxford

Poplin is a timeless smooth weave for business shirts. Twill features elegant diagonal lines, bringing shine and texture. Oxford is thick and textured, ideal for a relaxed weekend look. For an overview of all fabric types, see the LE CHEMISEUR fabric guide.

Which weave should I choose for easy ironing

Easy-care twill is the go-to option for effortless ironing thanks to its structure and finish, providing a crisp appearance with minimum effort. Check the ‘easy to iron’ selection on the LE CHEMISEUR shop.

What does double twisted mean

Double twisted means the thread is made by twisting two yarns together, like a rope, making the shirt stronger, smoother, and more resistant to frequent washes.

Poplin or twill for a flawless look all day

Poplin provides a formal and very smooth look perfect for business, while twill’s slight texture hides creases better and maintains a sharp appearance all day.

Does the yarn count affect softness

Yes, a higher yarn count means finer yarns, making the shirt softer and smoother for refined comfort.

Is twill business or casual

Twill is versatile: light and fine twills are great for the office, while heavier versions suit a casual chic style.

Is oxford suitable for work

Classic oxford leans more casual, but royal oxford or pinpoint weaves are refined and work well for the office.

Poplin or oxford for summer

Choose poplin for summer thanks to its lightweight and breathability; a cotton-linen blend offers even more freshness.

What is pinpoint

Pinpoint is a finer and more formal cousin of oxford, distinguished by subtle texture and refinement, ideal for both business and casual wear.

Difference between plain weave and basket weave

Plain weave is simple, tight and durable like poplin. Basket weave (oxford) brings extra texture and structure.

Is a thick shirt warmer

Yes, thick fabrics like flannel or heavyweight oxford retain heat better, making them ideal for autumn and winter.

Best fabric for sensitive skin

Soft cotton poplin is smooth and gentle, minimizing irritation and suitable for sensitive skin.

How to avoid transparency in a white shirt

Pick tightly woven fabrics with a higher weight for opacity. Easy-iron twills or pinpoint shirts from LE CHEMISEUR are good options.

What is dobby

Dobby is an elegant fabric featuring subtle micro-patterns, perfect to stand out discreetly, especially for celebrations or formal occasions.

How to spot quality fabric

Favor European fabrics with double-twisted yarns, high yarn counts, and smooth surface—like those from LE CHEMISEUR.

Does weave affect shirt style

Absolutely: poplin = classic formal, twill = elegant, oxford = casual. The weave personalizes your look.

Is fabric weight important

Yes, weight determines thickness: light for summer, medium for year-round use, heavier for winter. LE CHEMISEUR lists precise weights on each product.

What is double thread or double twisted

Double twisted uses two yarns spun together for extra strength, softness and durability in the shirt.

Criteria for a durable shirt

Choose double-twisted fabric, high yarn count, refined finishes and European weave for long-lasting quality.

Can I wear twill shirt in summer

Opt for fine twill or poplin for summer—they’re more breathable. See summer picks at LE CHEMISEUR.

Which fabrics reduce sweat marks

Patterns help conceal marks; cotton-linen blends are also very effective for summer.

Which shirt to travel with

An easy-care twill shirt is wrinkle-resistant and holds up well in a suitcase. See business travel options at LE CHEMISEUR.

What does easy care mean

Easy care means the fabric is specially finished for easy maintenance, quick ironing, and reduced wrinkling.

Oxford royal oxford pinpoint differences

Oxford is grainy and casual, royal oxford is finer and shinier for formal occasions, pinpoint is an intermediate weave bridging business and casual.

Why does weave affect the price

More complex weaves or double twisted yarns require more work and finer threads, making the shirt more valuable.

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